How to Overcome Fear and Anxiety in Big Waves

13 September 2025

Big waves can be terrifying. Let’s not sugarcoat it. Whether you’re paddling out in head-high surf for the first time or staring down a 20-foot monster at a legendary break, your heart is pounding, your breath is shallow, and that voice in your head is screaming, “What are you doing out here?!”

You're not alone. Fear and anxiety are completely normal responses when you're putting yourself in the path of raw ocean power. But the good news? You can learn to manage them. It’s not about eliminating fear—it's about understanding it, respecting it, and moving through it.

Why Big Waves Scare the Hell Out of Us

Let’s face it: the ocean is no joke.

Big surf triggers something primal in us. It’s a mix of the unknown, the uncontrollable, and the downright dangerous. Your brain goes into “fight or flight” mode. And honestly? That’s your body doing its job. It wants to keep you safe.

But here's the problem—when anxiety takes over, it doesn’t just make you nervous. It can paralyze your decision-making, tighten up your body, hold back your paddle power, and set you up for failure. And in big waves, hesitation can be the riskiest move of all.

That Fear? It’s Not Your Enemy

Let’s flip the script a little.

Fear isn’t weakness—it’s information. It’s your body’s way of saying, “Hey, this is serious.” But fear doesn’t mean stop. It means prepare. When you start to view fear as a signal instead of a stop sign, you begin to harness it instead of being ruled by it.

Think of it like a fire alarm. If you're trained, you know what to do when it goes off. You don’t panic—you take action.

The Real Difference Between Fear and Anxiety

Okay, slight detour—but an important one.

Fear and anxiety often get lumped together, but they’re not the same thing.

- Fear is immediate. A set’s coming, it’s huge, and your instinct kicks in.
- Anxiety is more future-based. It’s the “what ifs” that start days or hours before you’re even in the water.

The key to mastering big wave surfing isn’t eliminating fear—it’s managing anxiety in advance and learning how to work with fear when it shows up.

1. Build Confidence Through Preparation

Nobody just jumps into 15-foot surf on day one. Confidence is built over time—and the foundation is preparation.

- Know the break. Study the lineup, tides, swell direction, and crowd. Watch others before you paddle out.
- Know your equipment. Use a leash that won’t snap, a board that paddles well, and maybe even a reliable impact vest if it’s that kind of day.
- Train on land. Core strength, cardio, lung capacity—these matter. Big waves demand fitness, period.

Confidence is earned. It’s not bravado. When you’ve put in the hours, your mind knows you’re not bluffing.

2. Visualize Success (Not Disaster)

Your mind doesn’t know the difference between what’s real and what’s vividly imagined. That’s why visualization is an insanely powerful tool.

Before you even paddle out, sit somewhere quiet and go through the motions in your head:

- Paddling into a big one.
- Standing up with control.
- Making the drop.
- Riding it out.

Don’t focus on wipeouts or worst-case scenarios. Picture yourself performing calmly and with control. This mental rehearsal sets your brain up for the real deal.

3. Breathe Like Your Life Depends On It (Because It Might)

Here’s a wild fact: how you breathe can change your entire state of mind.

When anxiety hits, your breathing gets short and shallow. This signals to your brain that something’s wrong, which increases fear and tension—a vicious cycle.

Instead, practice box breathing:

- Inhale for 4 seconds
- Hold for 4 seconds
- Exhale for 4 seconds
- Hold for 4 seconds

This sends a “we’re cool” signal to your nervous system. Do it on the beach before paddling out. Do it while waiting in the lineup. This isn’t just about calm—it’s about control.

4. Start Smaller—Then Push Your Limits

Nobody’s handing out medals for wiping out in surf way above your comfort zone. If you’re not ready, you’re not ready—and that’s okay.

Build up slowly. Master 3-foot surf. Then 5. Then 8. Each step gives your mind and body a chance to adapt. Confidence grows. Skills sharpen.

The key is to consistently nudge that edge. Not blow right through it.

5. Learn to Wipe Out Like a Pro

Here’s the deal: you're going to fall. Everyone does. The difference is, experienced big wave surfers don’t fear the wipeout—they know how to handle it.

- Don’t panic. Tuck in. Relax.
- Protect your head and neck.
- Let the wave do its thing. Trying to fight it is a waste of energy.
- Come up slowly with your arms up to guard against your board or others.

Wipeouts are part of the game. The more you experience them—and survive—the less they’ll shake you.

6. Surround Yourself With The Right Crew

Solo sessions are sometimes necessary. But when you’re pushing into bigger surf, your crew matters—a lot.

- Surf with people you trust.
- Watch how they handle waves.
- Talk to them about their own fears.

Often, just hearing that others feel the same anxiety is incredibly validating. And in tough situations, having someone nearby can be the difference between a close call and a catastrophe.

7. Train Your Brain Like An Athlete

A strong mind is a trained mind. And just like your paddling muscles, mental strength takes reps.

- Journaling. Reflect on your surf sessions. What scared you? What did you overcome?
- Mindfulness or meditation. Even 5 minutes a day helps lower baseline anxiety.
- Mental rehearsal. Picture yourself surfing well, recovering from falls, staying calm.

The more your brain learns it can handle stress, the more resilient it becomes.

8. Respect the Ocean, But Don’t Worship the Fear

Big wave surfing will never be completely safe. That’s part of its allure. It commands respect.

But don’t mistake respect for submission. Fear is a guide—but it’s not the captain of your ship.

You’ve got to make decisions based on facts, skills, conditions—not on the stories fear tries to feed you. The ocean isn’t out to get you—it’s just being the ocean.

And you? You’re learning how to dance with it.

9. Use a Pre-Surf Ritual to Ground Yourself

Ever notice how athletes have little rituals before they perform? Same idea applies here.

Craft a short pre-surf routine that grounds you:

- Stretch
- Breathe intentionally
- Visualize your first wave
- Check your leash and gear

This doesn’t just prepare your body—it tunes your mind and helps switch from overthinking to doing.

10. Know When To Walk Away

Here’s the truth a lot of people won’t say: sometimes, the bravest move is deciding not to paddle out.

Ego will lie to you. Fear will confuse you. Intuition whispers. Learn to hear it.

There’s no shame in saying, “Not today.” The waves will always be there. Your job is to make sure you are too.

Overcoming Big Wave Anxiety Takes Time

Let’s be real. You’re not going to read one article and suddenly be charging Mavericks like it’s a kiddie pool. This is a journey, not a destination.

Some days, you’ll feel fearless. Other days, the nerves will creep back. Don’t beat yourself up. That’s just part of stretching your limits.

What matters is that you keep showing up. You keep pushing. You keep learning.

Fear doesn’t mean you’re weak. It means you’re alive. And courage? Courage is feeling all that fear, and paddling out anyway.

Final Thought: The Wave Isn’t Bigger Than You Think—It’s Exactly What You Think

Your fear creates monsters. That same wave looks twice as big through the lens of panic. But when you calm down, center yourself, and trust your training—it starts to look manageable.

It’s still scary, yeah. But it’s also rideable. And more importantly?

You’re ready for it.